• The difference between acnegenic and comedogenic ingredients
• How ingredient concentration and combinations affect comedogenicity
• Two key fatty acids and their role in skincare
• How to select non-comedogenic products for your specific skin type
• A comprehensive list of natural ingredients and their comedogenic ratings
  
• Methods to evaluate product comedogenicity from the label
• Common pore-clogging ingredients to watch for in your products

WHAT IS NON-COMEDOGENIC SKINCARE?

 

Non-comedogenic skincare is a cosmetic formulated with ingredients that don't clog pores and lead to blackheads, whiteheads or breakouts. 

So the logic goes - the more comedogenic ingredients in a skincare product, the higher the chance of breaking out, especially if you are prone to acne or have oily skin. Unfortunately (or fortunately), it's not quite that simple.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ACNE AND COMEDONES?

Acne is a skin condition that happens when sebaceous glands are infected; the skin develops red bumps around the infected area. A Comedo is a very dilated pore (the 'hole' surrounding a hair follicle, with or without hair) filled with dead skin cells, dirt, and sebum. If a comedo is open, the pore will look like a blackhead; if it is closed (so the skin covers it), it can cause inflammation, pimples, and whiteheads. It is the first step towards acne.

While all acnegenic ingredients are comedogenic, not all comedogenic ingredients cause acne in everyone

TWO FATTY ACIDS THAT MAKE THE DIFFERENCE: OLEIC AND LINOLEIC ACID

Fatty acids are the main constituents of cold-pressed or CO2-extracted plant oils and butters. The two primary focuses for comedogenicity are Linoleic acid and  Oleic acid.

Linoleic acid, the 'balancer' = lower chance of clogged pores

It is an essential building block for ceramides, one of the skin's main moisturising elements. This lightweight polyunsaturated omega-6 essential fatty acid is ideal for oily, acne-prone or combination skin. It helps regulate sebum production, supports the skin barrier, and reduces clogged pores. Many acne-prone skins are deficient in Linoleic acid, so using oils rich in Linoleic acid can help restore balance. Skin penetration is rapid.

Oleic acid, the 'nurturer' = higher chance of clogged pores

A rich, monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid known for its deeply nourishing and softening properties. Oleic acid is especially beneficial for dry, mature, or irritated skin. It helps replenish lipids, calm inflammation, and support a resilient skin barrier. It is thicker than linoleic acid, so penetration into the skin is slower. 

The ratio of Linoleic acid and Oleic acid often determines how comedogenic or non-comedogenic an oil or a butter is for different skin types.

While high levels of Oleic acid are commonly linked to comedogenicity, it's important to note that concentrations higher than 5-8% of some saturated fatty acids,  Lauric acid, Palmitic acid, and  Stearic acid, whether alone or combined, and even without oleic acid, can contribute to increased comedogenicity. This is especially true for oils like Coconut, Palm, and Palm Kernel, which contain these saturated fatty acids in high concentrations.

Some examples:

THE CONCENTRATION AND COMBINATION OF COMEDOGENIC INGREDIENTS CAN CHANGE EVERYTHING 

 

While individual ingredients have an established comedogenic rating, their real impact depends on the overall formulation. A highly comedogenic oil used in very low concentrations may have little to no pore-clogging effect. It’s not just about what ingredients are used: it’s about how much and in combination with what.

Understanding the chemistry behind these combinations is key to making smarter skincare choices.

SHAANT, our richest oil. It is a blend of highly nourishing oils, and its viscosity (thickness) is higher than our two other facial oils in our collection, AZUR or KORU. You may think that it's a highly comedogenic oil, but in reality, it has an approximate comedogenic rating of only 1.65. This is because it's a balanced formulation of comedogenic and non-comedogenic ingredients.

 

Shop Shaant Face Oil 

AZUR, a very light yet nourishing oil formulated with balanced oils (similar ratio Oleic and Linoleic acid) such as Argan, Cacay and non-comedogenic oils such as Sacha Inchi, Watermelon, Hazelnut (high in Linoleic acid).

Shop AZUR Face Oil 

KORU is a dry facial oil blended with low comedogenic oils with a very balanced concentration of ingredients for combination skin - its comedogenic rating is 1

Shop Koru Face Oil 

PICK THE RIGHT RATIO OF OLEIC - LINOLEIC ACID FOR YOUR SKIN

1. The best way to identify which oils will work best for you is to know your skin type (oily, combination, sensitive, normal and dry)
2. Then you need to take into account your skin condition (dehydrated, inflamed...).
3. Your age will be a third factor to consider.

Loved the visual above? Download it for free in high-res. ⬇️ Download VEGETABLE OILS COMEDOGENIC SCALE At Native Essentials, we care about spreading skincare info that’s easy, honest, and useful: no AI, no myths, no fluff. If you found this helpful and want to share it, thank you! Please credit us and link back. 🩵

COMEDOGENIC SCALE OF OILS AND BUTTERS

Ingredients are generally ranked as follows:

0 – NON-COMEDOGENIC (do not clog pores)

1 – SLIGHTLY COMEDOGENIC (very low chance of clogging pores)

2 – MODERATELY COMEDOGENIC (may clog pores for some but be fine for most)

3 – COMEDOGENIC (will clog acne-prone/oily skin type)

4 – FAIRLY HIGH COMEDOGENIC (will clog pores for almost all skin types)

5 – HIGHLY COMEDOGENIC (will clog pores)

IMPORTANT - The ratings below represent a range, not definitive rules. All oils/butters have been classified in their virgin state and using samples from various suppliers.

ONE EXCEPTION - RINSE OFF PRODUCTS

Rinse-off products (Exfoliants, Masks, Cleansing balms and oils) formulated with occlusive butters and oils and at times with mild surfactants (soap) usually fit in the 'no-no' category of comedogenic skincare. However, because they are combined with a surfactant and rinsed off, they do not clog pores and are a good alternative to harsh cleansing products that tend to leave the skin very dry and strip off much sebum.

SOLE, an exfoliant mask formulated with Olive oil, a comedogenic ingredient. Because SOLE is a rinse-off exfoliant and the concentration of Olive oil is less than 5%, we have rated it as 0.20.

Shop SOLE exfoliant 

OTHER COMEDOGENIC INGREDIENTS USED IN WATER-BASED SKINCARE

Some fatty alcohols (used as emulsifiers) can be comedogenic - (Hexadecyl Alcohol, Oleyl Alcohol, Socetyl alcohol, Isocetyl Stearate, Propylene glycol monostearate, Glyceryl-3-Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, Octyl stearate.)

Other water-soluble comedogenic ingredients are: Algae, Carrageenan (gum), Sodium chloride (salt), Potassium Chloride, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLS), Steareth 10, Lanolin, Aluminium (used in antiperspirant deodorants), Isopropyl Palmitate, Decyl oleate, Mineral oils.

HOW WE CALCULATE THE COMEDIGENIC SCALE OF OUR PRODUCTS

At Native Essentials, we calculate a weighted comedogenic rating for each product based on the fatty acid composition of every botanical oil in the formula. We follow the comedogenicity classification ranging between 0 (non-comedogenic) and 5 (will clog pores). We assess the percentage of each oil in the formula, identify its rating, and then calculate a proportional average to determine the overall comedogenic score of the product. 

Comedogenic Score Formula

Example:
If a formula contains:

• • • 40% Oil A (Rating 1)
    • 30% Oil B (Rating 2)
    • 30% Oil C (Rating 0)

Then:

(0.4×1)+(0.3×2)+(0.3×0)=0.4+0.6+0=1.0

8 TIPS FOR AVOIDING COMEDOGENIC SKINCARE INGREDIENTS:

1. Always read the labels. Ingredients are listed in order of concentration: the lowest concentration is listed at the end. Use the comedogenicity chart above as a reference.
2. Small amounts matter. Even highly comedogenic oils may have little to no effect when used in very low concentrations (below 4–5%) within a well-formulated product.
3. Don’t judge by texture alone. Thick or heavy oils aren't automatically pore-clogging: it’s the fatty acid composition that determines comedogenicity, not how the product feels.
4. Be cautious with makeup. Foundations, primers, and creamy eyeshadows often contain highly comedogenic ingredients like isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, sodium chloride, and dimethicone.
5. Trust ingredient science over hype. Some people swear by Coconut Oil, but just because it works for one person doesn’t mean it’s good for everyone. Its chemistry doesn’t lie: Coconut Oil is highly comedogenic.
6. Use comedogenic ratings as a guide, not a rule. These scores are helpful, but they're only approximations. The effect of an ingredient can vary depending on formulation, the uniqueness of each plant oil,  and your skin.
7. Know the difference between breakouts. Not all breakouts are caused by comedogenic ingredients. Acne breakouts and comedogenic breakouts can look different and may result from entirely different triggers.
8. Don’t skip exfoliation. If dead skin cells build up, even non-comedogenic products can clog pores. Regular, gentle exfoliation keeps your skin clear and helps active ingredients work more effectively.
9.  Water-based products are usually less comedogenic than oil-based ones. Skincare formulations like moisturisers, creams, serums, and lotions with high water content are less likely to clog pores. However, even water-based products can include non-oily ingredients that are comedogenic, so always check the label.
10. Rinse-off products are less risky. Cleansers, exfoliants, masks, and balms formulated with comedogenic ingredients are typically not occlusive and don’t stay on the skin long enough to clog pores.

DON'T FORGET

Skin biology varies from person to person. What clogs one person's pores might be beneficial for another. Factors like individual cell turnover rate, pore size, microbiome composition, and immune response all influence how skin reacts to oils or specific ingredients. An oil rated as comedogenic in tests may be perfectly fine for someone else.

Comedogenicity ratings can provide a rough starting point, but they don’t account for your unique skin. Always test new products slowly and observe how your skin responds.

Our Non-Comedogenic Nourishing and Repairing Picks:

Shop The Face Oil Collection

Shop Eyes & Lip Glow-Up Set

Resources:

http://www.nononsensecosmethic.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Comedogenicity-and-irritacy-of-commonly-used-ingredients.pdf

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/6240277/

https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamadermatology/article-abstract/543668

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/272670322_Noni_Seed_Oil_Topical_Safety_Efficacy_and_Potential_Mechanisms_of_Action

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24847408/

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/B9780128229125000034